Georgian Colette Making
Recently I have fallen in love with antique rose cuts and I have purchased a lot of them along with some Georgian style jewelry. Some of the bezels are so old and unusable that I decided it’s time to reset them. My regular jeweler can make them but he mainly does cad can now. And for me the replication of something should be done with the same handmade method. So I’ve decided to make it myself here is the step by step guide on how to make a silver Georgian Colette for a rose cut diamond.
Creating a Georgian collet (often spelled "colette" in some contexts) from silver involves crafting a setting for a gemstone, typically characterized by a bulbous, prong-like structure filed from a thick-walled silver tube. Georgian collets were used in jewelry from the 18th and early 19th centuries, known for their handcrafted, ornate designs. Below is a step-by-step guide to hand-making a Georgian-style collet from silver, based on historical techniques and the provided reference from jewelry-tutorials.com. This guide assumes you have basic silversmithing skills and tools.[](https://www.jewelry-tutorials.com/georgian-collet-making.html)
### Tools and Materials
- **Sterling silver sheet**: 1.5 mm thick, 5 mm wide strip (for a 4.5 mm round stone).
- **Round gemstone**: 4.5 mm diameter (adjust dimensions if using a different size).
- **Jeweler’s saw** with fine blades.
- **Files**: Flat, half-round, and needle files for shaping.
- **Soldering setup**: Torch, solder (hard and medium), flux, pickle solution.
- **Mandrel or dowel**: To form the tube.
- **Dividers or compass**: For marking.
- **Bench block** and hammer**: For shaping.
- **Pliers**: Round-nose and flat-nose.
- **Polishing tools**: Polishing cloth, rouge, or a flex shaft with polishing bits.
- **Safety gear**: Gloves, goggles, and ventilation.
### Step-by-Step Process
#### 1. **Prepare the Silver Strip**
- **Cut the strip**: Measure and cut a sterling silver strip (1.5 mm thick, 5 mm wide) to a length sufficient to form a tube with an inner diameter of 4 mm (for a 4.5 mm stone). For a 4 mm inner diameter, the strip length should be approximately 12.6 mm (circumference = π × diameter), plus a little extra for overlap.
- **Clean the edges**: File the edges of the strip smooth to ensure a tight seam when forming the tube.
#### 2. **Form the Tube**
- **Bend the strip**: Using a mandrel or dowel (slightly smaller than 4 mm in diameter), bend the strip into a circular shape. Use pliers to press the strip evenly around the mandrel.
- **Close the seam**: Align the edges so they meet flush. If needed, trim excess silver to ensure a tight fit.
- **Solder the seam**: Apply flux to the seam, place a small piece of hard solder along the joint, and heat with a torch until the solder flows, sealing the tube. Cool and pickle the tube to remove oxides.
- **True the tube**: Place the tube on a mandrel and gently tap with a hammer to ensure it’s perfectly round. Check that the inner diameter is 4 mm using calipers.
#### 3. **Shape the Tube**
- **File a taper**: On one end of the tube (the bottom), file a gradual taper to create a conical shape. This gives the collet its characteristic bulbous form. Leave the top end (where the stone will sit) at the full 4 mm inner diameter.
- **Smooth the taper**: Use a half-round file to refine the taper, ensuring a smooth, even curve. The bottom of the tube should be slightly narrower than the top.
#### 4. **Mark and Divide the Prongs**
- **Plan for six prongs**: Georgian collets often have six claws (prongs) for a round stone. Use dividers or a compass to mark six evenly spaced points around the top edge of the tube.
- **Score the marks**: With a jeweler’s saw, make light cuts at each of the six division points. These cuts guide where you’ll file the prongs. Keep the cuts shallow (about 1-2 mm deep) to avoid weakening the structure.
#### 5. **File the Prongs**
- **Shape the prongs**: Using a needle file, carefully file between the marked points to create six distinct prongs. File down to the depth needed for the stone’s girdle (typically 2-3 mm, depending on the stone’s height). The prongs should be evenly spaced and uniform in thickness.
- **Refine the shape**: Taper the prongs slightly toward the tips for elegance. Round the tips slightly with a needle file to prevent sharp edges that could snag or damage the stone.
- **Check the fit**: Place the 4.5 mm stone in the collet to ensure it sits snugly at the girdle, with the prongs extending just above the stone’s edge. Adjust by filing if necessary.
#### 6. **Set the Stone**
- **Prepare the stone seat**: If needed, use a small round bur or file to create a slight ledge inside the top of the collet where the stone’s girdle will rest. This ensures the stone sits securely.
- **Place the stone**: Set the stone in the collet, ensuring it’s level and centered.
- **Secure the stone**: Gently push each prong over the edge of the stone using a pusher tool or burnisher. Work in opposite pairs (e.g., prong 1 and 4, then 2 and 5, then 3 and 6) to keep the stone centered. Be careful not to crack the stone or deform the prongs.
- **Final adjustments**: File or burnish the prong tips to ensure they’re smooth and securely hold the stone.
#### 7. **Polish the Collet**
- **Clean the piece**: Pickle the collet again to remove any remaining oxides from soldering or handling.
- **Polish**: Use a flex shaft with polishing bits and rouge, or hand-polish with a polishing cloth, to achieve a high shine. Pay attention to the prongs and tapered base, as these are focal points in Georgian designs.
- **Inspect**: Check for any rough edges or tarnish and address them with additional polishing or cleaning.
#### 8. **Optional Enhancements**
- **Add a loop or bail**: If the collet is for a necklace, solder a silver loop or bail to the bottom of the tapered end using medium solder. Ensure the loop is securely attached and polished.
- **Engrave or decorate**: Georgian jewelry often featured intricate engraving or repoussé. If desired, use engraving tools to add decorative patterns to the collet’s exterior, mimicking historical styles like Rococo or Neoclassical motifs.[](https://williamwalter.co.uk/what-is-georgian-silver)[](https://www.gemsociety.org/article/georgian-period-jewelry/)
- **Combine with other elements**: For a full Georgian-style piece, incorporate the collet into a necklace or brooch, possibly linking multiple collets or adding pearls or paste gems, as was common in the period.[](https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/necklaces/style/georgian/)
### Notes and Tips
- **Precision is key**: Georgian collets require meticulous filing and shaping, as they’re not mass-produced like modern settings. Take your time to ensure symmetry and a secure stone setting.[](https://www.jewelry-tutorials.com/georgian-collet-making.html)
- **Historical accuracy**: Authentic Georgian collets were entirely handmade, often in silver for gem settings, with minimal porosity due to hand-forging techniques. Avoid modern casting to maintain authenticity.[](https://www.gemsociety.org/article/georgian-period-jewelry/)
- **Stone considerations**: Use a stone that mimics Georgian aesthetics, such as a rose-cut or old mine-cut gem, foil-backed paste, or a flat-cut garnet, as these were common in the era.[](https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/necklaces/style/georgian/)
- **Safety**: Always wear goggles and gloves when soldering or filing, and work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes from flux or pickle.
- **Resources**: For further guidance, consult silversmithing communities like r/SilverSmith on Reddit, where artisans share techniques for Georgian-style settings. You can also explore Etsy for inspiration on Georgian collet designs, though most are reproductions.[](https://www.reddit.com/r/SilverSmith/comments/1di2kss/georgian_collet_setting/)[](https://www.etsy.com/market/georgian_collet)
### Challenges and Considerations
- **Skill level**: This project requires intermediate to advanced silversmithing skills, particularly in soldering, filing, and stone setting. Practice on scrap silver before working on the final piece.
- **Time-intensive**: Hand-filing prongs and shaping the tube can take several hours, reflecting the labor-intensive nature of Georgian jewelry.[](https://www.gemsociety.org/article/georgian-period-jewelry/)
- **Material costs**: Sterling silver and quality gemstones can be expensive. Source materials from reputable suppliers to ensure quality.
